Dog Training Advice

Electronic Dog Training
By Larry Volwiler

Once people become familiar with electronic training products and use them properly, they find the methodology is proven, efficient, economical, and ethical.

The type of training in which an electronic aid is used is critically important, for it will influence the type of product and methods used. Is the equipment being used to teach a new obedience command, correct some common misbehavior, or is it being used to reinforce another electronic training methodology?

Factors affecting success Before an electronic training tool is used, it is strongly suggested that the entire training situation be re-examined. There are three major considerations in this re-evaluation:

 Does the owner know what he is doing, does he understand the training process, and can he apply proper methodology to a specific situation? Is the owner training the dog properly, does he have a plan for this specific misbehavior, and is he executing that plan appropriately and correctly? Is the dog trainable? Is the dog in question stubborn, set in his ways, or unintelligent? 

(We believe that all dogs are trainable. Dogs that seem stubborn, or unintelligent, have simply not been trained properly, consistently, or effectively.)

Of these factors, the first two are most important. If training is not successful, in most cases it is because owner education, preparedness, consistency or commitment is lacking. This may be difficult for some owners to accept, but remember that we have invited dogs into our environment. It is our responsibility to teach them in ways they can understand. This is incredibly important, because if an owner has not taken the time, or applied the appropriate techniques properly and consistently, training with an electronic product will not make a difference. It will only confuse even the smartest dog.

There are certain signals that suggest a dog has not been properly trained. In these instances a dog may:

 Resist when his owner attempts to place a collar around his neck. Withstand correction, of any type, in the presence of certain distractions Control his owner by acting timid or by ignoring his owner Panic when he senses a warning. Attempt to escape when receiving a correction Do anything except the behavior necessary to avoid the correction. 
Education is the key. If an owner takes the time to understand electronic training – why it works, how it works, how to apply the appropriate techniques – it can be a beneficial tool.

Electronic training requires knowledge and skill Why the concern for proper education? Because of the largest variable in the equation – the owner. Let us face it, humans are very unpredictable, as far as dogs are concerned. The response of most owners to the need for correction varies widely, depending on the dog, the training, the situation at hand, and even the mood they happen to be in at the time. This is not conducive to effective training – of any kind.

In most cases, a dog exhibits a behavior in response to some stimulus or distraction. Owners must be careful not to create yet another, different misbehavior by misapplying the correction, or applying it at the wrong time. And, for the safety of the dog, it is unnecessary to correct it for every little thing. Owners must be selective to avoid canine confusion. When applied properly, electronic training can be done successfully. To help understand this, let us examine how people respond to their dog without electronics.

Dog owners respond to their dog in any number of different ways. They may reward their dog by petting, talking, providing food or treats, playing, or letting them sleep on the bed. The list is as long as there are owners on it. These same owners also correct in various ways, including yelling, hitting, throwing things, the use of a chain link training collar, ignoring their dog, not providing food or treats, or isolation in a room, crate, or kennel. This does not imply that all of these forms of reward and correction are acceptable. Only that they are multiple, and that training can be successful under some of these circumstances. So it is with electronic training.

One of the greatest acknowledged advantages of electronic training is that sophisticated electronics do make us humans more predictable. It enhances human consistency, especially as it relates to correction. It also allows humans to easily and conveniently apply appropriate corrections, even when a dog is not within range of traditional (leash and choker collar) correction techniques.

Rules of electronic training As was mentioned earlier, electronic training operates on the same basic principles used in all canine behavior modification: correction, redirection, and reward. Therefore, it is imperative that the dog understands the basics before more sophisticated training begins.

‘Dummy Equipment Effect’: Before  electronic dog training begins, the owner/trainer needs to be comfortable in the use of the device, and the dog needs to be comfortable, as well. Thus it is very important to create the ‘Dummy Equipment Effect’ before beginning.

Dogs are highly intelligent and certainly smart enough to know the difference between the different types of collars being used. They look different. They smell different. They exert different pressures on the neck once they are applied. Even the owner/trainer acts differently with the different collars. In some cases, the owner/trainer is there; in other cases, he is not.

Because all of this is true, it is important to eliminate the equipment itself from the learning process. Here is how.

Before beginning to train with an active electronic collar, the dog should first become accustomed to a deactivated collar (i.e., take the battery out). Even if the dog trainer or dog owner is under pressure to train the dog quickly (e.g., the neighbors are complaining), he still needs to teach the dog that the collar is not something to be feared.

The last thing someone wants to see is the dog cowering when it is being approached with a training collar, electronic or otherwise. By spending just a few days introducing the dog to the collar, other problems can be prevented.

General Rules: All of the general rules of obedience training apply to electronic training as well. In fact, they are probably even more important in electronic training. These guidelines include:

 Do not train the dog for extended periods of time. Limit the number of corrections the dog receives in one training session and in one training day. Be sure that corrections are properly balanced with reward. Always give the correction at the same time. That is, do so only when the dog is actually misbehaving, not before the misbehavior occurs or after the misbehavior has stopped. This is important because it gives the dog a chance to learn, (i.e., to understand what causes the correction in the first place). 

Finally, the beginning point of most electronic training includes the use of a leash, which serves to help redirect the dog away from escape and other inappropriate responses. This, in turn, makes it increasingly important not to correct arbitrarily or out of frustration. As a dog trainer or owner, it is necessary to be as disciplined as you want the dog to be.

The importance of redirection and reward Electronic training combines several different techniques. Applying a correction is only a small part of a training program. Redirection and praise are far more important.

Why is this methodology important? Suppose there is a dog in a containment system, but every day he charges away and barks at a jogger who is running along outside the established bounds. What should be the desired correction? He should come when he is called, stay in the yard, and stop barking at the jogger. But chasing and barking are perfectly normal in a dog’s natural environment. Only in the human environment are they inappropriate.

Therefore, if the owner/trainer really wants to train the dog under these circumstances, he must first correct at the appropriate time, and consistently. He would do so using an obedience command. So, before beginning more complicated electronic training, it is important that the dog understand basic obedience commands. The trainer/owner must build from a solid foundation provided by these training basics.

In this specific instance, as soon as the dog takes off running, he would be given the ‘Come’ command. That way, when applying correction, it is because the dog did not come on command, not because he is chasing a jogger. Conversely, when the dog does obey immediately, he is praised for responding to the command, not for breaking off his pursuit. This is called redirection.

The risks in electronic training are the many variables. This same situation, handled improperly, can have the opposite effect. It could train the dog to attack joggers. A correction at the wrong time may cause the dog to identify the correction stimulus with the jogger. Dogs are known to have fight or flight responses to such threats. If the dog’s response is to ‘fight,’ joggers beware!

Reward: Unfortunately, some dog trainers/owners put the emphasis on correction. Even in this article, the information is weighted in this area. This is because correction is the area where most training problems occur. Reward is a much easier concept to understand and apply. During training, the dog should constantly and consistently be given a deserved reward – preferably praise and petting – for behavior that meets his training objectives. Again, timing is critical. The dog must be able to make the connection between the reward and the appropriate behavior.

Gratuitous reward is also a no-no. The dog trainer must reward the dog only when he is behaving properly. Do not worry, there will be plenty of opportunities to do so. Unless, of course, the dog trainer/owner slacks off and chooses to reward inconsistently; or he breaks down further and treats the dog to praise, petting, and food, even if a behavior is inappropriate.

Emotional and energy outlet: Appropriate emotional outlets also bear some discussion in this context. Obviously, electronic training is designed to stop a dog from exhibiting misbehaviors, and help reward him for what the dog trainer/owner considers appropriate behavior. But if a dog cannot leave the yard, no reward can replace the freedom he has lost. In such cases, a dog must be given other appropriate outlets. This is why activities like running with the dog, or playing with him, are extremely important.

Redirection: Redirection is equally important, if not more so. In many electronic training situations, the dog trainer/owner needs to provide an alternate behavior for the dog. This redirection provides a known behavior pattern that the dog can fall back on, enabling the dog trainer/owner to reward him. A good example of such a behavior pattern is the ‘Sit,’ ‘Get your ball,’ or other command the dog already understands.

Have a plan: Overall, what one tries to do with redirection and reward is build better behavior in the dog. But when building anything, it is useful to have a blueprint – a plan that outlines specifically what to do under an array of circumstances.

Because of all the variables involved with electronic training, the dog trainer/owner needs to have such a plan. He needs to know exactly what he is going to do before a situation arises. Because, when it comes to training dogs, he needs to expect the unexpected. But if there is a plan in place, he will know exactly what to do.

The best plans are the simplest – the ones that ask the dog to do something basic. Pick something the dog has done many times before; perhaps a ‘Sit’ and ‘Stay’ command. Reliance on an old habit can bring a misbehaving dog – even a frightened or frazzled dog – back into the comfort zone. This will enable the dog trainer/owner to reward the dog, or regroup, should this become necessary.

RadioFence.com is a leading retailer of  Dog Training Collars and many other Pet Supplies.

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Why Dogs Pull on the Leash

Pulling on the leash is actually a very common problem with dogs in general, not just for Mastiffs. A dog might pull for several reasons. Most often it is only because they are very excited. Allowing the dog to settle down before walking can often stop the leash pulling.

Sometimes, because of the dog pack mentality, a dog assumes leadership over its owner as if he were the leader of the pack. Therefore, the dog must be trained as to who the master is. The owner must establish him or herself as the leader of the pack. Failure to do so will result in ineffective training of any kind.

How to Leash Train

The first step is to train your English Bull Mastiff to sit still while you put the leash around his neck. Mastiffs love to spend time with their owners and they become very excited. Training your dog to be calm while preparing to go for a walk is an important step to leash training.

You can put toys or treats in your pocket to encourage your Mastiff to remain near your side as you walk. If he loses his concentration because a cat or another dog is nearby, you can change direction and coax him with a treat to get his attention back.

The idea is to get your puppy to be aware of you and your body so he will walk beside you and not wander or pull on the leash. If he begins to wander off or pull, stop walking. The collar will tighten and he will have to stop and turn and look at you. He will probably be confused at first as to why you are stopping. Coax him back to you and try walking together again.

At times you may need to give a gentle tug on the leash to get your puppy’s attention and to remind him that you are in charge. Never jerk harshly on the leash as this can cause damage to your dog’s trachea. You only want to get his attention, not frighten or harm your puppy.

Be consistent and persistent when leash training your English Bull Mastiff dog. Always, always praise him for his obedience. Mastiffs love nothing more than to please their owners, so praise goes a long way. Be patient, firm, and kind as you will get the desired results.

Leash training is so important, especially with large dogs. Failure to do so can lead to all sorts of problems, especially if they get off the leash around young children or other dogs. A well trained English Bull Mastiff is a joy to own and to be around.

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! To learn more about Mastiff care just go here http://www.YourMastiffAndYou.com

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive [http://www.yourmastiffandyou.com]Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! Learn more about   Mastiff Care Now!

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It is important to start training a dog between six and eight weeks of age. If your dog is older and has yet to be trained do not worry because it is “never too late to teach a dog a new trick.”

Many dog owners are curious as to the best way to go about dog training. There are several dog training tips that dog owners should be aware of. A very important dog training tip is that the owner must use positive reinforcement.

When training a dog it is good to reward the dog with both praise and dog treats. The dog should be awarded a treat each time the dog performs a command correctly. This will reinforce positive behavior.

Another dog training tip is to give firm but friendly commands. Give commands such as come and heel in a friendly voice. For commands such as down, stay and sit you will want to use a lower firmer voice.

When your dog has an accident in the house it is important to not rub your dog’s nose into the accident. Also, when your dog has an accident do not hit his or her nose with a newspaper.

When training a dog it is important to not punish the dog. Punishing a dog during training will only cause the dog to be afraid of you. One of the most valuable tips to follow when training a dog is to use consistent training techniques.

Dogs are wonderful companions and usually very easy to train. When your dog follows a command give the dog lots of praise and a dog treat. This is the easiest and most effective way to train a dog. Remember to enjoy the time you spend with your dog as this time forms a bond that is unbreakable.

Written by Samantha Gibson. Find the latest information on http://www.treasurevalleydogtraining.com Idaho dog training as well as http://www.treasurevalleydogtraining.com Boise dog training.

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Dog training is defined to be the method of teaching a dog to perform certain behaviors. There are many areas of dog training which can include obedience, agility, retrieving and hunting. The behaviors involved in each case are different but the underlying principle is similar. That principle is to have established a good relationship between the dog and the handler.

To be able to achieve success with the training, discussed below are some recommended principles to execute.

It is important to note that all dog training must be done to educate the dog by developing its instincts and drawing out accidental and acquired habits. The most important step to do to start dog training is the establishment of the bond to create a nice working relationship between the handler and the dog. The trainer must be patient with the dog. The situations must be understood from the dog’s abilities. For this reason, commands, the execution and the subsequent reward or punishment should all be made clear to the dog.

To avoid any confusion during the training, it is important that the dog is with the trainer a lot of the time in order to be familiar with the words, voice and actions of the trainer which will help in making the training easier. It is also important that only the trainer gives out the commands and that unnecessary fussing over the dog is avoided. This would prevent any confusion on the part of the dog with regards to which it should follow.

During dog training, the trainer must always anticipate the dog’s actions. Commands must be given before the dog acts. If the dog does something wrong, the step should not be repeated but rather return at the beginning because the dog must learn to consider only right actions in its entirety. The subsequent reward or punishment should follow quickly after the act in order to instill what is right and what is wrong. Also, dog training must always finish with a good note. At the very least, correcting a wrong behavior should be done. The success of the dog training can be determined by both the dog and the handler. The success of the handler depends on the ability to make the dog understand what it needs to do instinctively while the success of the dog is when it has the ability to understand that a specific behavior will gain a specific act of completion.

About the Author
He is a Dog owner who shares information and likes to pass it on To read More Go Here Dog Behavior Problem

 John Hocking
http://www.dog-training-advice.com

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Dogs dig for a variety of reasons. Once you understand why your dog is digging, you can easily stop this type of dog behavior.

Reasons Why Your Dog May be Digging

Dogs frequently dig as a form of recreation. If the backyard is his kingdom and he is alone, digging is one of the fun ways your dog may while away the hours until you return

Young dogs and puppies enjoy digging as well. What a way to use up all that energy youngsters are famous for ! Some dogs dig because it’s in their genes.” Some breeds of dogs such as terriers are natural diggers….so when your terrier starts digging, he’s just continuing an inherited family trait.

Your dog may be digging because he is looking for a cool place on a hot summer day.

Your dog may be looking for a way to make a break for it.

Ok so it seems that your dog is digging because his parents did or he’s just a fireball of doggy energy.

What you want to know is how to stop your dog from digging.

Here’s a few ideas.

Make sure that your dog gets plenty of exercise. I walk my dogs four times a day. If you don’t have time to walk your dog as much as I do, by all means walk him at least twice daily. When you take your dog for a walk, make sure you spend at least thirty minutes on your walk. This is one of the high points of your dog’s day. He has a natural need for exercise . By providing him with the exercise he needs your dog will be healthier and tuckered out when you return.

As a result, digging won’t appeal to your dog as much as it did before. He’ll be more interested in a nap and some sedate playing until you return home.

Join a group training class with a professional dog trainer. There are many low cost dog training programs in your town that meet once or twice a week. The dog trainer will help you socialize your dog and learn to obey basic commands. By teaching your dog a few commands you will be able to stop your dog from digging whenever he decides to kick up a little dirt.

Divert your dog’s attention when he starts to dig with a toy or a game of fetch.. He may soon decide that running and fetching is a lot more fun than digging through a pile of dirt.

If your dog is a “genetic digger”, who digs because it’s a breed characteristic, there is a way to control this type of dog digging as well.

Provide an area of the backyard that your dog is allowed to dig in. Whenever he starts to dig, direct him to that area and let him have a dirt digging good time.

If he starts to make a move toward another area of the yard to expand his digging territory, stop him immediately. The best way to do this is to give him a strong verbal command such as “NO Digging!”. Use the exact same phrase every time. Your dog does not understand English or any other language. But he will become accustomed to hearing the sounds of those words and the tone of your voice.

Never, under any condition strike or physically punish your dog. It’s cruel, abusive, unlawful and will not achieve the results that this misguided reaction intends. Your dog will only have the undesired behavior reinforced and become fearful of you. Neither is helpful or healthy.. If your dog is just looking for a cool spot, why not provide him a shady area, with cool water and a gentle breeze. If it is too hot for you to be in the yard, it is too hot for your dog as well. Bring him indoors and let him relax in a cool place with plenty of fresh water and food.

About the Author
Is your dog a world class digger? Does he misbehave in any other way such as barking or exhibit aggression toward dogs or people? Whatever the problem, help is at hand. Find out how to easily solve any dog behavior issue at
http://www.dogs-4life.com/disobedient-dog-help.html

John Hocking
http://www.dog-training-advice.com

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Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his “den” you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog’s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you’re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite “potty pattern”: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her “potty area”. Right from the start I began repeating “Quickly, quickly, quickly”, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating “Quickly, quickly, quickly”, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten – back outside. Family social hour – back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn’t have to clean up a single “accident” with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe “chewy” items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their “den”, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog’s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it’s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can’t control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog’s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he’s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re certain that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

About the author:
Anne Pottinger publishes http://www.4petsonline.coma pet and domestic animal website with a difference. The site contains hundreds of pages of pet information and advice as well as many humorous and often poignant articles. She’s always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions

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The newest dog training craze is clicker dog training. A clicker is a small rectangular plastic box with a metal button on top that clicks, hence the name clicker. It’s the type of training that the dog decides whether or not it suits him. There have been a lot of success stories with clickers, but with my dog he just didn’t want to know!

Researchers in dog studies believe that the clicker promotes enforced training, without punishment! As we all know when we do something good and get rewarded for it we are going to do the same again, a dog thinks the same way. Dogs learn through consequences, if they do something and it earns them a treat and praise they are going to want to do it again because they like this consequence. If they do something that you don’t like and they get ignored or said no to in a strict voice they know that they aren’t going to get any treats so are not going to do it again.

Clicker dog training works in such a way it reinforces good behaviour. If your dog sits, click and give him a treat. The next time he sits do the same but don’t say anything to him. He will soon realise that when he sits he will get a treat and hear a click, so when you eventually come to click before he sits he knows to sit. Its not all that confusing when you think about it.

Punishment is not used with clicker dog training as researchers believe that although punishment does stop some bad behaviour it may also create another unwanted behaviour. Punishment is almost always carried out after the dog has done something wrong so dogs see punishment as a random consequence therefore punishment doesn’t really solve anything.

Clicker dog training is not only used or dogs! It is widely used for other animals such as dolphins and horses. It is a widely practiced training method and does produce results; if carried out properly.

About the author:

William Nabaza of http://www.Nabaza.com specializes in domains, webhosting, webmaster’s tools, netpreneur’s articles and resources. Stands out as a freebie provider, business opportunity provider and the like. Visit his site at http://www.nabaza.com or contact him directly at william@nabaza.com There’s more pet resources here: http://www.nabaza.com/pets.htm

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People frequently ask how a Dog Behaviorist and Dog Obedience Trainer relates to dogs and earns their respect and control . . . and especially that of the Dominant Dog. The first part of that answer is simply stated but difficult for many people to internalize and act upon: To relate to a dog, you must first see and treat him fully as a DOG.

Before you can deal with a dog dominance issue at home or in dog obedience training, you must recognize that dog behavior and dog communication are not in line with human psychology. After all, your dog is a canine(canis familiaris of the Family Canidae), not homo sapiens. So he thinks like a canine, not like a person. Your dog responds as one might in a wolf pack, not as a human family member. He or she has real emotions, but they are canine emotions, not human emotions, and not to be mistaken as such.

The basic communication system of dogs involves three critical elements: silence, submission, and leadership, sometimes referred to generally as the dog whisper technique with elements of wolf pack communication. We will use these elements in this and subsequent dog training articles about solving Dog Dominance problems. You and I need to understand, “read,” and use your dog’s own communication system for optimal effectiveness in working with him.

Dogs have an inherent “pack psychology” which governs their thinking and actions. In a pack, there is one dominant one, and the rest are all followers. There is one “Alpha male” and one “Alpha female.” To relate to a dog from a position of strength, respect, and control, YOU must be the “Alpha Leader,” the “Pack Leader,” and you must use pack psychology and pack communication.

Often we see dominant dogs taken home as young pups, because people are amused by their spirited behavior. Actually, they are usually the first puppies chosen, the proverbial “pick of the litter.” However, if this “high-spirited nature” is not controlled, then things get out of control quickly . . . becoming worse over time . . . until the situation sometimes becomes dangerous. Dominance can lead to “violence.”

So you might look for a mature dog, such as a Shelter Dog or Rescued Dog. However, looking for a less dominant pet is not so easy in shelters. There a dog’s true nature is difficult to discern without the aid of an experienced person. While in the shelter, the dog rarely has an area or anything that is under the dog’s control, so there is little opportunity to observe possessiveness and dominance problems.

Nor are dogs cooped up in shelters able to burn off excess energy. It’s very hard for an untrained eye to differentiate between an excited “please take me home” and the more troublesome “I want to control you!” of the hyper-active, dominant canine.

But the dominance problem quickly becomes evident when you go home and relax, for dominance shows up where “weakness” is present. For example, petting your dog when it is submissive (e.g., sitting or lying down) is appropriate and desirable, but not when it is in an aggressive or dominant stance.

If you display any sign of soft laxity at the wrong time because of your affection, that will be interpreted by your dog as weakness . . . and then, “Katie bar the door!” With dominant types, you simply cannot afford to let down your guard, or to make an exception “just this once” because the pup is so cute.

You must establish and maintain firm, consistent control of the Dominant Dog at all times. These eye-catching, spirited animals are highly intelligent and have great potential, but they also are usually very willful, stubborn, born leaders who seek to control you, other animals, and their environment. They want to rule the roost!

You cannot give them an inch . . . . or they will take it, and take it, and take it . . . over and over, time and again. These dogs are persistent!

For example, one friend had an Old English Sheepdog puppy, an “Alpha Female” about eight months old, who had a very bad reaction to a toxic flea dip in the 1970’s. As the puppy started to tremor, the frightened owners lifted their darling onto the foot of the bed, both for her comfort and to ease their own backs as they nursed her.

MISTAKE! That one incident led that puppy and her litter-mate to sneak onto the bed whenever possible . . . a pattern the owners never succeeded in terminating for the rest of the dogs’ lives!

Too many owners just coddle the two-and-three month old “babies” and think that puppy training can start later. NO! The intelligent, spirited ones, especially, must be “trained” from day one with consistency, with You clearly as the Master

Because of their high intelligence, they are ready much earlier than others for more formal types of training, too. Training helps remove boredom and release energy, while giving the prideful animal a proper goal for which to strive, and achievement about which to strut with regal, dignified, proud bearing and the clear satisfaction of pleasing.“Don’t move with them, you lose them!”

I, too, have had a trying personal experience with an aggressive “Alpha pup.” I brought home a beautiful “Rescued Dog,” a retriever puppy from the Humane Society. She turned out to be the most willful and stubborn dog I have ever seen, striving for dominance in all things! There is no way she would have lasted in a “normal” home. However, because of my sheer determination with consistent, proper training, she is becoming a loving, playful, and obedient “sweetheart” who, without loss of any spunk or pride, nevertheless submits to my command by a mere glance. I am her undisputed “Pack Leader.”

Still, it wasn’t easy to get her to that state. In great frustration, I eagerly sought the advice of two other trainers with vast puppy experience. So I say to beleaguered Owners of aggressive, dominant puppies and dogs, Don’t be embarrassed. This can happen to anyone! Never be ashamed to ask for help from a Dog Trainer.” (Just make sure they really understand pack psychology.)

If you have a dog dominance problem, there IS a specific training technique that will work for you, and it centers on “FOCUS.” It applies the communication system of “silence, submission, and leadership,” and is a dog training technique which is effective with most dog dominance issues. [It's much more effective and pleasant than hitting and yelling!]

So get help with control of the dog dominance behavior, and restore a right relationship with your pet, and peace and harmony in your home!

About the AuthorRena Murray is a Dog Obedience Trainer and Dog Behaviorist with extensive Dog Behavior Modification experience. With practical self-help articles and a free email newsletter, Rena will help you select, train, communicate with, and control your dog. Turn your Dominant Dog into a lovable, obedient pet. Visit the Dog Dominance Behavior web site today!

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You’ve probably had a day or two when you felt like your dog just wasn’t paying any attention to you at all, right? You talked, you yelled, you shouted, maybe you jumped up and down and waved your arms, but she just wasn’t interested in anything you had to say to her in any tone of voice. You’re not alone.

1. Your dog isn’t human.

Unless you believe in pet psychics, there’s really no way for you to read your pooch’s mind and figure out exactly what she’s thinking. The good news is that, like many dog owners, the problems you’re having can probably be traced to one simple thing: you’re trying to communicate with your dog from a human standpoint, and your dog isn’t a human. Sure, you know that, but lots of humans try to relate with their dogs in the ways that they think are rational as humans. The problem is that dogs are driven in every act and every moment by very strong instincts. Deciphering those instincts and leveraging them to build a productive relationship is like finding the keys to the city.

2. Your dog doesn’t speak English.

Take the word “no,” for example. Does your dog speak English? Not understand English. Does she speak it? What’s meaningful to her is your tone of voice, not the word itself. Now let’s think about that – we’re taking up excess time trying to teach our dog a word she’ll never speak and that probably doesn’t mean much to her anyway. Sure, it’s meaningful to us, but that’s only one side of the equation. What about something that’s meaningful to both human and dog?

3. You know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means.

If you think that mutually meaningful language doesn’t exist, you’re not thinking creatively enough. What does it say to you when a dog growls at you? Anything from “get away from my food” to “back off, dude,” right? Yet in every case, a dog’s growl typically means that she is not happy with whatever you’ve done. And you’ve seen dogs react to other dogs’ growls, right? So you know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means. Where’s the disconnect? Growl at your dog!

No, seriously. The next time your pooch starts stepping outside her bounds or doing something you don’t like, growl at her. A nice, strong, guttural growl that would put the alpha wolf in a pack to shame. While you’re growling, look directly into her eyes. You’re almost guaranteed that she’ll back off.

4. Instincts save time and communicate effectively.

See that? You worked with her instinct and the information hardwired into her brain, and the result was instantaneous. Why spend tons of time trying to work against that instinct and end up frustrated, angry, and still not communicating This approach works in everything from basic discipline to full-on obedience training. You just need to figure out how to apply it in each of those situations.

About the Author
John Savage is a dog lover through and through and currently lives with 2 beautiful canines.

If you would like to read about an excellent system of dog obedience training please Click Here to visit my Blog

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The first major improvement in dog training since choke chains and spiked collars, click and treat has quickly establishing itself in becoming a big hit in the world of dog training. Currently, there are over 10,000 trainers who are using this training method everyday.

One advantage to using this form of training at home is it’s easy to learn for both the dog and his trainer!

Originally used to train marine mammals, click and treat breaks down the process into two separate steps, information and motivation. The click is the information, the treat is the motivation. While other trainers still work on these two steps, they try to teach them all at once, which can confuse the animal and slow down results.

Most trainers will verbally praise a dog for good behavior, while at the same time motivating the dog to repeat his actions. This can be a good method, however it takes longer for the dog to understand which behaviors and actions caused the praise from the trainer.

With the click and treat method, the processes are easily taught. In normal training, a person would say “good boy” when a welcomed action occurs and proceed with giving a treat. The clicker becomes a substitute for verbal praise and can actually catch the “good boy” behavior quicker than saying it, letting the dog know exactly which behavior he is being rewarded for.

Another way to look at click and treat training is viewing it as a secondary reinforcement, while food, water, physical affection and play (things the dog wants) become primary reinforcement. When you take a dog for a walk, the leash works as a secondary reinforcement. It is obvious to the dog that the leash is not taking him for a walk; the owner is, however, it triggers a reaction in the dog, telling him that the leash will let him know where he will go and where he will not. And if he reacts to the leash with good behavior, his reward will be a nice leisurely walk.

Click and treat works the same way. When a dog hears the clicker, he will know that he performed a good behavior and as long as he keeps hearing a click, there is a treat coming his way. So, the clicker works as a secondary reinforcement, teaching him boundaries and appropriate behavior.

A couple advantages of the click and treat method include;

1) Faster response than verbal praise. The clicker can identify the exact behavior at the time it happens.

2) It takes the place of treats. While motivating the dog to hear clicks, it will also teach him to work without the expectations of having treats given to him each time he does something good.

3) If the trainer is working at a distance from the dog, the clicker will still work, without having to be right next him.

Are you ready to try clicker training?

The first thing you’ll need to do is go to your favorite pet supply store and invest in a clicker. The clicker is nothing fancy and should just cost you under five dollars. While you’re there grab some pocket treats, little bits of dried liver work well.

A good method to use when getting started with click and treat is to stand in front of the animal. Click the clicker and give a treat. Continue doing this for 20-30 minutes, or until the dog becomes startled by the sound of the click. This will familiarize him to the clicking sound, while teaching him that every time he hears it, he has done something good. After he gets the hang of it, begin by adding commands, such as “sit” and “stay.”

Click and treat has proven to be a simple, yet consistent training method with quick results. So for the trainers out there who are looking for a new and innovative way to motivate and praise their animals, get out there, buy a clicker and…..click!

About the author:

As an avid dog lover, Anne Doyle understands the benefits of owning a well-trained dog. There is no nicer compliment than “Wow, your dog listens well, how did you train him?” Having a well-behaved dog is easy when you know a few secrets, Ann shares some at http://abetterdog.com/

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