Archive for May, 2005

HOW TO GO ABOUT FIND THE BEST AND CUTEST PUPPY TO BUY ONLINE

How To Help Your Dog With Food Allergies

How To Housebreak Your Dog…Even If It’s Still A Puppy.

How To Housebreak Your Dog…Even If It’s Still A Puppy.
Author: Jake Berlin
The one unpleasant aspect of owning any puppy is the job of housebreaking. As cute as puppies are, each must be trained but remember that every puppy will conquer housebreaking although at a different rate. While some dog breeds can be housebroken in a very short amount of time, other breeds can be quite challenging.|

Paper Training
Paper training or using commercially made training pads should be avoided. While this method of training has long been promoted as being easy and successful, the truth is that it teaches the puppy that going potty indoors is acceptable. Instead of encouraging the puppy to go outside, it actually causes confusion. Therefore, you should consider paper training as a last resort.

Crate Training
Using a crate to potty train your new puppy is an excellent and very effective method. With crate training, your puppy will, in time learn to wait to do its business outdoors. It is important to remember that puppies, just like babies, have very small bladders. For this reason, getting your puppy to wait through the night without needing to go outside will take a few months. This is normal and requires patience, love, and support on your part. With crate training, the right type of behavior is encouraged in your new puppy.
Schedule
Regardless of the breed, with dedication and a lot of patience, your puppy will learn the rules. Keep in mind that age does play a role in how easy your dog will complete the process. Since a small puppy eats more meals than an adult dog does, you can expect more trips outside. For this reason, you will need to set up a schedule that coordinates with the puppy’s age.

Typically, a small puppy will need to go outside about every two to three hours. Although you will need to establish your own schedule, the following is what you might expect during the potty training period.

7:00 a.m. – Take the puppy outside immediately after waking up
7:15 a.m. – Feed and water the puppy inside a crate large enough for the puppy to move around
7:45 a.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty
11:45 a.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty
12:00 p.m. – Feed and water the puppy inside its crate
12:45 p.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty

Around this time, your puppy will be tired and in need of a nap. Gently place your puppy inside the crate. To make it feel more comfortable and secure, add in an old sweatshirt of cozy blanket, a couple of soft toys, and then allow the puppy to rest for about an hour. Chances are that you will not need to coax it much since puppies sleep often. Remember, this schedule is to encourage a pattern, making potty training easier.

2:30 p.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty
4:30 p.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty
5:00 p.m. – Feed and water the puppy inside the crate
5:30 p.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty

About an hour after your puppy has had dinner, take it for a short walk and then spend quality time playing and enjoying it. This quality time will help build the bond and a relationship of trust, which only helps to strengthen the desire of the puppy to please its master. In addition, playtime is excellent for socializing the puppy while helping it sleep longer during the night.

7:30 p.m. – Remove the puppy’s water and any food for the night
8:30 p.m. – Take the puppy outside to go potty
9:30 p.m. – Put the puppy in the crate to sleep

More than likely, your new puppy will not be able to go all night without taking care of business. Listen for any restlessness or whining, a sure sign that the puppy needs to go outside. While the process can be inconvenient and tiresome since you never know what time the puppy will awaken, with consistency, your puppy will learn much quicker.

Remember, if the puppy should have an accident in its crate, never administer punishment – it was just an accident. Most puppies that mess in their cage feel embarrassed and ashamed. If your puppy has an accident, take it outside anyway so the association is reinforced. Then, clean the crate, add fresh bedding, and again, tuck the little one in for the night.
Word Association
During the potty training process, your puppy will begin to give you some kind of signal that it needs to go outside to potty. Your job is to learn those signals and the sooner the better. You may notice your puppy walking in circles, walking toward the door, sitting and staring at you, pawing at you, sniffing the ground, and so on.

When you see your puppy giving the signal that it is about to go potty indoors you need to say to it with a firm voice “NO!” In addition, you will need to establish one word or phrase that will be used to make the outside association. For instance, when you notice your puppy giving the signal, say “no”. Then, use your command, which could be something like “Let’s go potty” or “Potty time”.

With that, pick the puppy up and take it outdoors. Soon, your puppy will begin to respond to that command and know what it means. Sometimes a puppy gets outdoors and forgets about going potty. After all, there are squirrels to chase, leaves to sniff, and flowers to investigate. To help your puppy concentrate on the reason for being outside at that moment, you will need another command.

In this case, you could use words like, “Go potty” or “Do your business.” For quick and complete success, make sure that every time your puppy goes outside, the same command is used. This consistency is establishing the appropriate behavior. While it will take you hundreds of times before your puppy gets it, with persistence and patience, you puppy will catch on. After your puppy finishes going potty, provide lots of praise.
Supervision
Another key to successful housebreaking a puppy is making sure you supervise it at all times. While this can be challenging, at first when your puppy is very small, keep it in sight. This way, your puppy will not have the opportunity to sneak off to potty in other rooms of the house. If necessary, you can set up a baby or doggie playpen if you are busy. For example, while cooking dinner, you can use baby gates to keep the puppy in the same room with you or while taking a bath, place the puppy in the crate or playpen. Remember, this is only temporary.
Indoor Accidents
Your puppy will have accidents indoors so expect it. The key is to catch the puppy in the act. As an example, if you have stepped out of the room only to come back a few minutes later to find a wet spot on the floor, correcting at that time is useless. Whatever you do, NEVER rub your dog’s nose in its potty. Not only is this unhealthy, it is demeaning and guaranteed not to accomplish a thing.

Since puppies often forget quickly, punishing five minutes after the fact only confuses the puppy, which can create an entire new array of problems. Remember, you want your puppy to trust you so it has to understand the punishment. If you do find a wet spot, use hot soapy water or carpet cleaner specialized for puppy accidents, cleaning the area thoroughly. Then, sprinkle or spray on a neutralizing deodorant. Although you can buy a number of products on the market, a mixture of 50/50 vinegar and water works quite well.
Physical Problems
On rare occasion, puppies can have some type of physical problem that inhibits them from being potty trained. Problems such as bladder infection or behavioral issues caused by stress are common causes for a puppy being slow in the potty training department. Therefore, if it seems that your puppy is having trouble going potty outdoors, keep an eye on the situation. If the problem continues, have it checked by your veterinarian.

One other consideration is that dogs that have not yet been spayed or neutered have a higher probability of going inside. With potty training, it is not an overnight fix. Puppies take tremendous time and responsibility to train. The good news is that once the training is complete, you have an amazing friend for many years to come.

About the Author

Jake Berlin is the webmaster of Easy-Dog-Training.com, where you can learn how to put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems…And slash your dog obedience training time in half by using techniques that give you immediate results!!

If You Want a Friend, Get a Dog!

If You Want a Friend, Get a Dog!
Author: M J Plaster

Carl Icahn, the hostile takeover master who was THE original corporate raider, is often quoted as saying, “In this business, if you want a friend, get a dog!” The rest of us already knew that dog was man’s best friend, and with good reason. Dogs as pets date back at least as far as the days of Pompeii, where the remains of a dog stretched out next to a little boy were recovered from the rubble at Pompeii.

We all know that dogs are cute, warm, and cuddly, requiring little more than food, water, shelter and affection to return unwavering devotion. Dogs have earned their rightful place as a family member. In fact, what family portrait is complete without the family canine?

Dogs earned their place of prominence years ago among their blind and deaf owners and in local, state, federal and international law enforcement. Hint: be sure to rid your coat pockets of doggie biscuits the next time you travel, unless you want to be attacked by a drug and bomb-sniffing dog.

A quick glance through the amazing true stories ripped from the headlines below demonstrates that dogs may never fall from their pedestal as man’s best friend! While it’s true that we must do for dogs what they cannot do for themselves, have a look at the things that dogs have done for us that we could not or did not want to do for ourselves.

Dogs CAN smell cancer

On September 24, 2004, the Associated Press reported that the first scientific experiment to prove what has long been suspected—that dogs can smell cancer—was successful. A dog’s sense of smell is far superior to that of a human’s: 10,000 to 100,000 times better. The results of the study appeared in the British Medical Journal. The study proved that dogs could indeed smell cancer. What remains to be determined is whether dogs can effectively communicate the presence of cancer. What’s most promising is that dogs may well be able to detect the presence of cancer before high-tech medical testing.

Dogs help seniors live longer

In 1999, a study reported in the Journal of American Geriatrics concluded what many have known intuitively and anecdotally for a long time: seniors with pets live longer and fuller lives both physically and mentally. Once again, science proves common sense. Dogs require walking. Active seniors with pets have lower blood pressure, visit their doctors less frequently, require hospitalization less frequently and when they are hospitalized, the duration is shorter. Assisted living facilities and nursing homes have moved almost en masse to allowing visiting pets or housing a resident pet for their residents. The Delta Pet Partner certifies pets to visit nursing homes and hospice facilities. If you have an elderly parent, consider giving the gift of life, a companion dog.

Hostage miniature dog escapes and eludes captors

In 1992, a teeny tiny 11-year-old Pomeranian was reportedly stolen from its home in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. The following January, a father/daughter team in Corpus Christie, Texas, saw a van chasing the little dog. The driver abandoned the van and began chasing the dog on foot, but could never catch the dog. Finally, the dog’s captor fled the scene, abandoning the dog, an animal perhaps 1/20th the size of its captor. The daughter chased the dog, and the dog willingly jumped in her arms. Since the dog wore tags, the father/daughter team returned the dog to its owners.

What’s next? Courier dogs?

Actually, that’s old news! In 2001, it was reported that a then five-year-old golden retriever named J.C. delivered its owners’ prescriptions from the pharmacy. The pharmacy was located in the same strip mall as the owners’ shop in Penn Hills, Pennsylvania, and J.C. always accompanied the owners to the pharmacy. The dog began carrying the prescriptions back from these outings. J.C.’s not just any old dog. It was reported that he took instruction well, and when instructed, he ran down to the pharmacy and returned with prescriptions in tow.

Since the beginning of their relationship with humans, dogs have fended for their owners, rescuing them from all sorts of perilous situations. Won’t you consider rescuing a dog from the loneliness of life without an owner?

M J Plaster is a successful author who provides information on shopping online for dog supplies, dog toys, and more. M J Plaster has been a commercial freelance writer for almost two decades, most recently specializing in home and garden, the low-carb lifestyle, investing, and anything that defines la dolce vita.

If You Own Two Dogs, Can You Control Who’s The Alpha Dog?

If You Own Two Dogs, Can You Control Who’s The Alpha Dog?
Author: Adam G. Katz
Dear Mr. Katz:

I have two cocker spaniels that are one year apart. The red and white female (Cassie)is almost two and spayed. The buff male (Peanut) is just one 1 years old and neutered. Peanut was rescued from a cocker shelter in October of 1999. He is incredibly devoted, a very good listener and quick learner. He is the ideal dog as he is very eager to please. Cassie on the other hand is the most independent and stubborn dog I have ever encountered (you’ve probably seen worse). She used to only listen to commands when she wanted but I have put a stop to that. I have had numerous problems with her dominant tendencies but have come a long way. She now views me as the alpha and only displays aggression when she is in pain — specifically when I brush her. She has been diagnosed with allergies, is on allergy shots and has bad skin. This is not my problem though as I think I can work through this one with the use of the training collar.

ADAM INTERJECTS: It’s very difficult to correct pain-response aggression. It’s more of a reaction than anything else. Use the muzzle and restrain the dog when you need to give her shots. Other times (just so that she doesn’t build a negative association to the muzzle) put it on, take it off, and then give her a cookie. Do this at random times.

BETH CONTINUES: Cassie displays a lot of dominance aggression toward Peanut. She growls when he tries to pick up a bone near her and when they play (or fight) she will “hump” him. I always feed her first, give her treats first, pet her first but Peanut just doesn’t seem to get it. He will walk through the door before Cassie but after me. He is always one head length ahead of her when we walk outside. Further, I think he is trying to challenge her because the playing time more recently has turned into fighting. It’s more barking than anything — to date there has been no blood. However, Cassie usually is on top of him, pinning him to the ground, and he lets out this barking/yelping noise when she releases, he goes right after her again until I break it up.

She also displays the same aggression toward the cat. If the cat comes into her “area” when she is comfortable in front of the fire or if the cat even walks by one of her bones she goes crazy. She’ll chase the cat away with growling and quickly running after her.

ADAM INTERJECTS AGAIN: You can correct this behavior. She will learn not to chase the cat in the house.

BETH CONTINUES: So here’s the big question. What do I do? Do I continue to treat Cassie as the next in the pack? Do I let them fight it out? Do I continue to scold her for chasing the cat? HELP!

Any advice you can offer will be much appreciated. Your book is great by the way….

Regards,
Beth

Dear Beth:

Thanks for the question.

There is ONE big point you’re not conceptualizing: You can only affect your relationship with each dog. You can be dominant to both dogs. Or you can be dominant to only one dog. Or you can be viewed as the Omega dog (the most submissive one) by both dogs.

However, you cannot control how your dogs view each other.

This is a topic I’ve written about in past issues of my e-zine. I’m going to reprint it for your benefit:

A subscriber wrote: “Thanks, Adam. I think I found the answer. ‘We determine who will be the alpha dog.’
Correct? “

My reply:

“No, no no!

You cannot do this! It’s impossible!!!

The dogs’ temperaments are inherent. Only you can determine if you’re dominant to the other dogs, by being MORE DOMINANT. But you cannot work it out for them.

You can control the dogs’ behaviors and not allow any scuffles if you:

-are the alpha dog in the pack. and you have voice control.

But as soon as you leave the dogs together– unsupervised– and go out for dinner… all bets are off. The dominant one will still be the dominant one.

Think of taking a group of four kids.

Kid#1 will grow up to be a Navy Seal, and then an Admiral.
Kid#2 will grow up to be a fierce criminal defense attorney.
Kid#3 will grow up to be a middle management executive for a large firm.
Kid#4: will grow up to be a peace activist and a socialist.

Now, when you leave the house every day for work, you may say, “Kid#4… you’re in charge.” And as long as you’re around, Kid#4 may get the privileges of being the “so-called” top dog.

But as soon as you leave…

It’s going to be a given that kid#3 and kid#4 are going to be the bottom dogs, and kid #1 and kid#2 will scrap-it-out to see who is REALLY the “top dog.” Their genetics (and to some extent, upbringing– depending upon their age) determines this. But it is the toughest kid who will become the group leader.

Even though kid #2 may be fairly tough in his own right, he will test kid#1… but will ultimately lose… as kid#1 is too tough.

Now, if kid#1 gets sick and has to stay in bed, then kid#2 becomes the new kid#1.

In other words, the “Alpha dog.”

Until you get home. Then you’re the alpha dog, and he becomes the beta dog.

Get it?

Beth, as far as you’ve described your dogs’ interactions… it doesn’t sound to me like you’ve got a problem. It sounds just like play, or perhaps some dominance scuffles. However, without seeing the dogs in person it’s impossible to tell for sure.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below):
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Identifying and Treating Health Problems in Your Dog

Identifying and Treating Health Problems in Your Dog
Author: Brigitte Smith

An essential to your dog’s health is his/her regular annual checkup with the vet. The vaccinations* which are given to your dog each year ensure your dog’s immunity to some common infectious diseases. And when the vet gives the vaccinations*, it’s also an excellent opportunity for a thorough physical examination to be carried out, and a time to discuss any minor problems or issues which you feel may be affecting your dog’s health or wellbeing. This is a time when your vet may pick up inherited diseases and the like (when your dog is young) so they can be treated early, or just kept an eye on. And as your dog gets older, the vet may find the early signs of more sinister illnesses.

I recently took my dogs for their annual checkup, and for the first time alarms were raised about matters of significant concern – it was thought that Kara might have early stages of lymphoma (cancer) – which, fortunately, tests then proved to be not the case. And Jet apparently has something akin to the early stages of cataracts in humans in her eyes, and according to the vet, Jet is likely to go progressively blind over the next several years. At least knowing this in advance gives me the opportunity to watch for any developing signs and, if and when necessary, adapt her outings and home environment to take into account any sight loss, and most importantly, it has made me realise that vitamin and mineral supplementation in dogs is actually a very wise idea.

Worming and “de-flea-ing” your dog are the commonest forms of health measures which you probably undertake yourself for your dog. Fleas infest almost every dog at some time. Sometimes a lot of the time. Dogs which socialise with other dogs outside the home tend to become infested the most often. Fleas can carry disease and parasites, including tapeworm.

But fleas are extremely irritating for your dog. They often cause intense itching, which in turn can cause your dog to damage his/her skin by vigorous scratching. Some dogs are allergic to flea bites. Even after the fleas have been doused with flea poison and killed, the cycle of itch, scratch, itch, scratch, can remain.

My Rottweiler has been terribly affected two or three times now by this self-perpetuating cycle caused by her allergy to flea bites. Most of the skin damage has been caused by Kara incessantly scratching and injuring herself.

A dog with an infestation of fleas is neither a healthy nor a happy dog. So at the first sign of a flea, it’s important to treat your dog for this very common problem. And those pesky fleas don’t always readily show themselves. So if your dog is scratching more than usual, the first thing to do is a thorough search through your dog’s coat. If you sight even one flea, treat your dog immediately. Some people treat routinely just because it’s flea season, and still others actually treat throughout the year. And of course, it goes without saying that if you have more than one animal, you must treat them all at the same time.

This way, you’ll ensure that your dog is as healthy and happy as can be!

* There are natural alternatives to vaccinations. For further information, subscribe to the Healthy Happy Dogs newsletter.

(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural health for dogs. For your free special report, as well as weekly tips, information, strategies and resources for a healthier happier dog, go to http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com and submit your name and email address. Take a look around the site – http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com – while you’re there – you’ll find lots of useful information.

How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden

How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden
Author: Adam G. Katz

First, I need to figure out when he is digging. Since I know
the dog and his lifestyle, I can rule out several factors
such as boredom or puppyhood or gophers, etc…
I noticed that every time he would start digging holes he
was in the yard playing with a friend’s dog, unsupervised.
So, I first need to MAKE SURE that it was ACTUALLY MY DOG
that was the perpetrator. A quick look at his feet would
suggest that it was.

Next, I needed to figure out if he would dig ANY TIME he was
left alone in the yard or if it was only when another dog
was present.

To figure this out, I simply left the dog in the yard alone
with access to the rose garden several times… and came
back to find that he had not dug.

So… it stands to reason that the only time my dog is
digging in the yard is when there is another dog in the
yard. (Who knows why? There could be a million unexplained
reasons that only the dog knows. All I need in order to fix
the behavior is knowledge of the dog and the circumstances).
Now, I know that to fix any behavior problem I need to make
the dog experience a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION with the actual
ACT of doing that behavior. In this case, digging in the
garden.

And he needs to experience that same negative association
EVERY TIME HE DIGS!

In this case, I must be 100% diligent to never leave Forbes
unsupervised in the yard when there is another dog in the
yard.

Of course, if he was digging by himself, then I’d need to
confine him to a kennel run where he cannot dig when I’m not
supervising him. Or if there is another dog visiting then I
will need to bring Forbes inside, put him in the kennel run,
or use the presence of the other dog as a “set up.”
The next step is to make sure that he associates that
negative (correction) just as he starts to dig.
There are two ways I can do this: The Lazy Man’s Way and the
Old Fashioned Way. Both methods are based on the same
principle.

The Old Fashioned Way to make sure that the dog gets a
motivational negative association when he digs is to:

Step 1.) Leave a pinch collar and tab (one foot leash) on
the dog when he’s outside in the yard with another dog.

Step 2.) Bury hardware mesh or chicken wire in the spot
where he’s been digging. The chicken wire should be buried
two to three inches below the surface. Dogs don’t like
scraping their paws against this stuff. So, right off the
bat you’ve got an immediate negative association.

Step 3.) Spy on him and just wait until he start to dig.

Step 4.) As soon as he begins to dig, yell “No No No!” as
you run outside and give the dog a correction. As long as
you continue to say “No no no” as you run to the dog, the
dog WILL still associate the correction with the behavior.

Step 5.) Be 100% consistent until you are 100% sure that the
dog isn’t digging any more.

The Lazy Man’s Way to fix this problem behavior is to use a
remote electronic collar (e-collar). Everything else remains
the same. (Click on the link above to read about my
recommendations for buying a remote electronic training
collar).

When using the e-collar for this behavior, I’d turn the
setting up to the high level. Your goal is to create
absolute avoidance to this behavior (digging in the garden).
And you want him to think that the dirt just jumped up and
bit him! Usually if you correct the dog with the electronic
collar for this type of behavior, you’ve only got to do it
twice before the dog decides that it’s in his best interest
to leave your garden alone.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my
book (click below):
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the Author
Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you
can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

…

How to Protect Your Dog and Family from Roundworms

How to Protect Your Dog and Family from Roundworms
Author: Jennifer Bryant

Nearly every puppy in the world is born with roundworms. This is because the roundworm’s larvae are transmitted from the mother to the puppy while it is still in the womb. A female dog can harbor roundworms in her tissue, often making them immune to dewormings. The roundworms then have the opportunity to emerge during pregnancy through the mother’s bloodstream and infect the unborn puppies. Roundworms can also be transmitted to newborn puppies through the mother’s milk during nursing.

Roundworms are also easily transmitted to humans. Young children are most susceptible because they are always sticking their fingers in their mouths! Roundworms are transmitted to humans and dogs through eggs that are in a dog or puppy’s stool. They can either be ingested through direct eating of the stool or by eating something else that has eaten the stool (the dog eats a bird, mouse, etc. that has eaten the dog’s stool).

Everyone should wash their hands frequently after handling the puppy or dog and make sure that all feces is removed from the yard and disposed of on a daily basis. Most infections in people are mild and cause no symptoms at all. However there have been cases of worms migrating to the liver, brain, and eyes.

Symptoms of roundworms in humans include:

• Anemia
• Appetite Loss
• Difficulty Breathing
• Constipation
• Cough
• Cramping
• Diarrhea
• Fever
• Hives
• Itching
• Nausea
• Chest Pain
• Muscle Pain
• Passing of Worms
• Rash
• Skin Lesions
• Swelling
• Vision Disturbances
• Vomiting
• Weight Loss

Infected puppies can become quite ill and heavy infestations may lead to convulsions and even death. Most puppies that die are around the age of two to three weeks old. Puppies should be wormed at ages 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age. Adult dogs should receive yearly stool samples from their veterinarian to check for worms. Roundworms will look like spaghetti in the puppy’s feces.

Symptoms of roundworms in dogs include:

• Potbelly
• Diarrhea
• Gas
• Vomiting
• Lack of Energy
• Slow Growth Rate
• Dull Coat
• Coughing (if immature roundworms have migrated to the puppy’s lungs)

Some dogs may show some or all of these symptoms while others may show no symptoms at all. When adult roundworms are seen in the dog’s stool this is often because of ongoing disease in the bowel or sometimes because the worm burden had become so great that the worms are crowding each other out.

Treatment of roundworms is not dangerous and is highly effective. Buy your wormers from the vet and give them regularly as instructed. The tablets are not difficult to give if you train your dog to take them in tiny bits of cheese or put them into sweets. The best way to protect your family and dogs from roundworms is through a regular program of both medication and prevention (keeping the yard clean of feces).

About the Author:
Jennifer Bryant is a life-long lover of dogs. Jennifer loves and breeds American Pit Bull Terriers in her North Georgia home with her 2 young children. Her love of dogs has inspired her to create a website for herself (as well as other dog breeders) to advertise their occasional litter of puppies and to educate others with dog breed information and useful articles.

Bryant’s Red Devils
Red Nose American Pit Bull Terriers

Puppies and Dogs for Sale .com

How To Prevent Dog Bites

How To Prevent Dog Bites
Author: Lateef Olajide

It is very certain that there is no guarantee that your dog
will never bite someone under any condition which you may
not even predict. However, you can reduce the risk attached
to dog bite. The popular saying is that prevention is
better than cure.

Since prevention of dog bites is not the responsiblity of
dog owners alone, here we will be discussing preventive
measures the prospective dog owners, dog owners, parents,
and general member of the public can make instant use of.

Preventive measures applicable to potential dog owners

The first thing you must do before you think of bringing in
a dog to your househood is to first evaluate your
environment and your lifestyle.

Though their is no breed that will not under any condition
which you may not predict, however it is still very
important for you to consult professionals like
veterinarian, dog behaviorist and breeder to determine the
breed that will be suitable for you, your family and most
especially that will be suitable for your environment.
Obtainning breed specification will help you alot in
avoiding any possible future trouble.

Prospective dog owner should not buy a dog that is bellow 8
weeks of age. Puppy bellow this age will not have the
opportunity to learn bite inhibition from his litter mate at
all.

Buying dog that is above 4 months is a bit risky to be
introduce to your home as you may not predict the dog
behavior. However, if you are to buy older dog at all make
sure that you did not purchase a do with any history of
aggression.

If any of your children exhibit any fear or apprehension of
dogs, make sure you delay bringing in a dog. You should know
earlier if you seek your children’s opinion during your
evaluation of your environment. However, if your child is no
yet 6 years of age it is adviciable to hold the purchase of
large dog.

Preventive measures for dog owners

According to Human Society of the United States resports
spayed and neutered dogs are three times less like to bite.
Thus is is highly essential for you to spay and neuter you
dogs. Doing this will reduce their frequent aggressive
tendency.

As a dog owner it is very important that you socialize your
dog. If you socialize your dog well it will be much likely
you will experience dog bite. Socializing you dog help boost
it’s confidence and reduce it’s been nervours or frightened
under normal circumstances.

So socialize your dog very well by introducing your dog to
your member of family, other people, and experiences that
could possibly course nervousness and fear biting in future.
Do this and make it feel at ease with people and other
dogs.

Dog training will also help you in preventing dog bite. You
have to learn proper training techniques by attending dog
training class. Attending these classes will help you
socialize your dog. Train your dog to respond to some basic
comands such as “stay, “leave it” and “come”. Also train you
dog to drop his toys on command . If you don’t do this you
will have to retrieve it from his mouth. Thus taking risk of
your finger been bitten.

Teach your dog acceptable behaviors by enrolling in an
obediece class. Attending this class you dog will be trained
to be submissive and respect your leadership in the house.
Games like “tug of war”, “wresling”,”siccing the dog on
another person” should not be avoided as it encourages
aggression.

For continuation of this article and other interested advice
on dog bite prevention
Visit http://www.dog-bite-prevention.com

About the Author

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How to Keep Your Boxer – or any Dog – Healthy

How to Keep Your Boxer – or any Dog – Healthy…
Author: Gord Shinh
Feed him a balanced diet.

- Give an occasional yogurt treat
- Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.

- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.

- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.

- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.

- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.

- Make a breeder your friend.

- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer’s life.

- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

- Your Boxer has fleas if you find black specks in the fur or fleabite marks on the skin. A tip given by an owner is to give your Boxer garlic daily to prevent fleas.

- Boxers catch fleas from other animals. It is an every day problem that, at some time or another, you can expect to encounter in your Boxer.

- The fleas only go to the Boxer to feed on its blood.

- Fleas mostly live and multiply in your home. The comfortable living – central heating, double-glazing and, best of all, the fitted carpet – we create for ourselves and our Boxers also work best for the fleas.

- De-worm your puppy every month and your adult Boxer, every six months.

-Worms
Worms is another everyday problem in Boxers but the puppy is more likely to get sick from worms than the grown up Boxer.

The sick one would lose weight and become weak, suffer from upset stomach, poor growth, listlessness or even lung trouble.

They may impede your puppy´s growth and cause him to have a potbelly or be thin and have a shoddy-looking coat.

Your grown Boxer may not be showing any sign of worms but he could spread them more than the sick puppy, through large amount of larvae or eggs passed out in the feces.

If your Boxer has tapeworms, he has fleas too because part of the tapeworm life cycle occurs in flea as the host. As such, treatments against flea and tapeworm are normally prescribed together.

Some, like the roundworm, that infect dogs can also get passed on to children.

In more serious cases, your dog will catch cough, pneumonia and develop lung problems.

There are different types of worms that infect dogs such as tapeworm, roundworm, ringworm and heartworm. De-worm your Boxer puppy every month and your grown Boxer, every 6 months.

Puppies get sick from worms, more so than dogs.

But your infected grown Boxers help spread the worms more through their droppings that would contain large number of larvae and/or eggs.

Released into the surrounding, these larvae and eggs could infect other animals and even children.

The tapeworms have a flat, segmented body.

You see them as single segments or chains that resemble segments of rice in the droppings of infected canine.

Part of the tapeworm´s life cycle occurs in the flea as the host. Therefore, if your Boxer has tapeworms, it has fleas too and the treatments for both are usually prescribed together by the vet.

The roundworms (toxocara) live and produce hundreds of eggs in the intestine.

They cause digestive upset in puppies, poor growth, and thin or out-of-conditioned coat.

The infected puppies may become listless, have a potbelly or tucked in appearance.

Once the roundworms migrated from the gut to the lungs, your Boxer can suffer lung damage, cough and pneumonia.

The roundworm eggs in the dog droppings get passed out and about.

These are very hardy eggs, resistant to heat and cold, and can survive up to 7 years in the soil. The eggs can pass on to children through ingestion and cause them to fall sick as well.

As precautions, you can toilet train your Boxer puppy to use a place where you can easily clean up and dispose of the droppings into the sewer. Have your children wash their hands every time after they handle the puppies and discourage your puppies from licking people hands or faces.

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About the Author

Gord Shinh is the author of the website www.1st-in-dogstuff.com
Boxer Dog Information, Puppy Articles, Dog Pictures, Dog Training Tips and Resources. For information, visit .Boxer Dog Information